Wiring Color Codes, ECU Pin Out, and Photos


Wiring Color Code Chart

W = White

BK = Black

OR = Orange

BR = Brown

CL = Clear

R = Red

Y = Yellow

G = Green

BL = Blue

V = Violet (purple)

GY = Gray

LT.G = Light Green

Note: Two color description means the wire has a main color and a "tracer" stripe along the wire of another color.

i.e. R/Y = Red wire with Yellow Stripe


ECU Pin Out MAC-02

Main ECU connector pin out, 25 pins.

With the ECU removed from the car, and looking at release tang next to the pressure sensor port connection, Pin 1 is first pin on the bottom far left, Pins 2-13 follow on to the right, Pin 14 is first pin on the left, upper row, Pins 15-25 follow on the top row to the right.

1. Ground

2. Ignition Module Ground return

3. No connection

4. Hall Sender ground return

5. O2 Sensor shield

6. O2 signal wire

7. No connection

8. CIS Freq................ Valve

9. Ground

10. Coolant Sensor

11. RPM Sensor signal

12. TDC Sensor signal

13. TDC Sensor signal

14. Terminal 15 Ignition +12V

15. Idle Switch

16. Fuel Pump Relay control

17. Ignition Control Unit signal

18. Intake air temp sensor

19. Intake air temp sensor

20. Hall Sender + 12V

21. Full Throttle switch

22. Hall Sender timing signal

23. RPM sensor shield ground

24. RPM Sensor signal

25. TDC Sensor Shield ground

 


MAC-02 ECU Photo

Here is what the inside of the MAC-02 looks like.

 


ECU Pin Out MAC-07

Main ECU connector pin out, 35 pins.

When the ECU is installed in the car vertically, Pin 1 is the first pin on the right, closest to passenger door, i.e. towards the rear of the vehicle. (next to the connector release tab end). Pins 2-18 follow forward on the right side row. Pin 19 is the first pin on the left, with its position shifted slightly forward of Pin 1. Pins 20-35 follow forward on the left row.

With the ECU removed from the car and looking at the ECU at the connector end, with the metal mounting tab down and to your right. The ECU connector Pin 1 is first pin on the bottom row to the left, Pins 1-18 follow on the bottom row to the right, Pin 19 is first pin on the top row to the left, Pins 19-35 follow on the top row to the right.

1. Cold Start Valve

2. Ignition Module Ground

3. no connection

4. Hall Sender return ground

5. ground

6. ground

7. Tachometer

8. CIS Freq Valve

9. Ground

10. Coolant Sensor

11. RPM Sensor signal

12. TDC signal +

13. TDC signal -

14. no connection

15. Knock Sensor Positive

16. Knock Sensor ground/shield

17. Boost Gauge

18. Ground

19. Waste Gate solenoid control

20. Idle Switch

21. Fuel Pump relay ground control

22. Ignition Module control signal

23. Intake Air Temp sensor ground return

24. Intake Air Temp Sensor +

25. Hall Effect +12V supply

26. Full Throttle Switch

27. Hall Sensor signal

28. RPM/TDC shield wire

29. RPM return ground

30. O2 Sensor shield ground

31. Fault code light control

32. Brake Light Switch

33. O2 sensor output

34. no connection

35. +12 Voltage from ignition switch

 


MAC-07 Photo

Here is what the inside of the MAC-07 ECU looks like.

 


ECU Pin Out MAC-10/MAC-11

Main ECU connector pin out, 35 pins.

When the ECU is installed in the car vertically, Pin 1 is the first pin on the right, closest to passenger door, i.e. towards the rear of the vehicle. (next to the connector release tab end). Pins 2-18 follow forward on the right side row. Pin 19 is the first pin on the left, with its position shifted slightly forward of Pin 1. Pins 20-35 follow forward on the left row.

With the ECU removed from the car and looking at the ECU at the connector end, with the metal mounting tab down and to your right. The ECU connector Pin 1 is first pin on the bottom row to the left, Pins 1-18 follow on the bottom row to the right, Pin 19 is first pin on the top row to the left, Pins 19-35 follow on the top row to the right.

1. Cold Start Valve

2. Ignition Module Ground

3. Charcoal Canister Filter solenoid (negative supply)

4. Decel Valve

5. N/C

6. Code wire, connected for Automatic Transmission cars

7. Tachometer

8. CIS Freq Valve

9. Ground

10. Coolant Sensor

11. RPM Sensor + (Y)

12. TDC signal -

13. TDC signal +

14. Over temp switch

15. Knock Sensor signal

16. Knock Sensor ground/shield

17. Boost Gauge

18. Ground

19. Waste Gate solenoid control

20. Idle Switch

21. Fuel Pump relay ground control

22. Ignition Module control signal

23. Intake sensor and Hall sensor ground return

24. Intake Air Temp Sensor

25. Hall Effect +12V supply

26. Full Throttle Switch

27. Hall Sensor signal

28. RPM/TDC shield wire

29. RPM return ground

30. O2 Sensor shield ground

31. Fault code light control (fuel pump fuse contact)

32. Brake Light Switch

33. O2 sensor output

34. California Code wire, connect for California vehicles

35. +12 Voltage from ignition switch

 


MAC-11 ECU Photo

Here is what the inside of the MAC-10, MAC-11 and MAC-12 ECU's look like.

 


ECU Supply Voltage check and Pressure Sensor test

If you have an intermittent running problem with excessive pinging and this is related to the dash boost gauge giving strange readings, the ECU internal pressure sensor may be having a problem. The ECU may store a 2222 fault code and the "Check Engine" light may also come on if the ECU pressure sensor is acting up. You should verify the hose from the intake manifold to the ECU is not leaking and make sure it has not come loose. If the ECU internal Pressure Sensor is not getting the correct boost pressure, the engine may ping very badly as the ECU will not know that it needs to retard the timing while under boost.

With the ignition key on, but with the engine not running, you should see 0.9 to 1.0 bar on the dash gauge if you are near sea level altitude. The gauge reads out "absolute" pressure from 0.0 to 2.0 bar, above 1.0 you are seeing positive manifold pressure, i.e. turbo boost.

You may also have a ground or +12V supply problem either on the engine or a problem with the supply power or ground to the ECU. You could also have a failure of the pressure sensor inside the ECU.

If the dash problem is a separate problem and not related to the running of the car, it could just be a malfunction of the circuit board computer on the dash gauge pod assembly.

You should check the ground wires that connect to the rear area on the intake manifold on the engine. Remove the bolt and make sure the threads are clean and re-tighten. The main ground strap on the engine down below near the left side engine mount should be checked as well.

You should measure the +12V supply going to the ECU using a Digital Voltmeter. Pin 35 is the +12V supply, Check the voltage from pin 35 to both pins 18 and 9 as these two are the ground connections on the ECU. With the ignition key on, you should measure ~12-13 Volts across these pins. You may want to remove the one screw holding the ECU against the body and pull it out to make checking the voltages easier. Leave the ECU connector plugged in during the test.

To check out the boost gauge signal coming from the ECU which comes from the internal Pressure sensor, connect a DMM across Pins 17 (+) and Pin 18 (-) and with the ignition key on, you should measure between 2.5 to 2.7 volts if you are near sea level altitude. This would correspond to a 0.9 to 1.0 reading on the dash boost gauge. These pins are the last two pins which are the farthest forward and next to the body when the ECU is mounted in the car. In other words, these two pins for the boost gauge output are ones hardest to get to.

If you don't get this voltage reading then you might have a defective pressure sensor inside the ECU or a short between the ECU and the boost gauge assembly. If the wire from the boost gauge to the ECU is shorted, it should not really affect the operation of the ECU to control the engine, because inside the ECU this boost gauge output circuit is isolated from the rest of the internal pressure sensor signal used to control boost and timing.

If you are really brave, you can remove the ECU cover and use a Digital Multimeter to test the pressure sensor. You want to see if it is getting a good + 5 Volt supply and see if it has the correct output voltage. There is a +5 Volt regulator inside the ECU that supplies power to this sensor and the other circuitry. Be VERY careful when probing around inside the ECU with the DMM. Pin 2 of the sensor is the +5V supply. The ground supply pin (19) on the pressure sensor is the one directly opposite Pin 2 on the other side of the pressure sensor. The sensor output voltage is on Pin 1. This sensor only uses three pins for operation, all the other pins are used to support the sensor and hold it off the circuit board.

This sensor is used in the MAC-05, 07, 10, 11, 12, 13, and MAC-14 ECU's so this test can be used on these other ECU's. As mentioned before, with the ignition key on but with the engine off, the pressure sensor output voltage should be between 2.5 to 2.7 volts when the car is near sea level altitude. With a hand pump connected to the ECU sensor port, the sensor output voltage will rise up "close" to the 5.0 volt supply, (~4.95V) as the pressure applied is raised to 2.0 bar absolute. The stock dash mounted boost gauge will normally read up to ~2.0 bar, a few will read up to 2.1 bar but at that point it tops out and won't read any higher. the accuracy at this end of the range won't be very good. Here is a photo of the pressure sensor with the Ground, + 5 Volt and sensor output voltage connections marked.

 


ECU Pin Out MAC-12

Main ECU connector pin out, 35 pins.

With the ECU removed from the car and looking at the ECU at the connector end, with the metal mounting tab down and to your right. The ECU connector Pin 1 is first pin on the bottom row to the left, Pins 1-18 follow on the bottom row to the right, Pin 19 is first pin on the top row to the left, Pins 19-35 follow on the top row to the right.

1. Cold Start Valve

2. Chassis

3. No connection

4. No connection

5. Chassis

6. No connection

7. Idle Stabilizer , Oil Pressure Warning Controller

8. CIS Frequency valve

9. Chassis ground

10. Coolant Temperature

11. Engine RPM Sensor

12. Ignition Timing Sensor

13. Ignition Timing Sensor

14. Electronic Thermo switch

15. Knock Sensor

16. Knock Sensor (shield for above)

17. No connection

18. Chassis ground

19. Waste gate Control Valve

20. Idle Switch

21. Fuel Pump Relay

22. Electronic Ignition, Power Stage

23. Air Temperature Sensor and Hall Sensor ground return

24. Air Temp Sensor

25. WOT, Full Load Switch

27. Hall Sensor

28. Shielding for 11, 12, 13, 29

29. Engine RPM Sensor

30. No connection

31. Fuel pump relay fuse holder, Fault codes

32. No connection

33. No connection

34. Chassis ground

35. +12V Power from ignition


ECU Pin Out MAC-14

Main ECU connector pin out, 35 pins.

When the ECU is installed in the car vertically, Pin 1 is the first pin on the right, closest to passenger door, i.e. towards the rear of the vehicle. (next to the connector release tab end). Pins 2-18 follow forward on the right side row. Pin 19 is the first pin on the left, with its position shifted slightly forward of Pin 1. Pins 20-35 follow forward on the left row.

With the ECU removed from the car and looking at the ECU at the connector end, with the metal mounting tab down and to your right. The ECU connector Pin 1 is first pin on the bottom row to the left, Pins 1-18 follow on the bottom row to the right, Pin 19 is first pin on the top row to the left, Pins 19-35 follow on the top row to the right.

1. Cold Start Valve

2. Knock Sensor #2 Signal

3. Charcoal Canister Filter solenoid control signal

4. Decel Valve

5. Engine Control Lamp control (Tan connector)

6. T6F/4 Flash Code Connector W/BL

7. Tachometer

8. CIS Freq. Valve

9. Ground

10. Coolant Sensor

11. RPM Sensor signal

12. TDC Shield and ground

13. TDC Signal

14. Over temp switch

15. Knock Sensor #1 Signal

16. Knock Sensor ground/shield

17. Boost Gauge

18. Ground (O2 sensor)

19. Waste Gate solenoid control

20. Idle Switch

21. Fuel Pump relay control

22. Ignition Module control

23. Charcoal Canister shut off (small rear valve)

24. Intake Air Temp Sensor

25. Hall Effect +12V Supply

26. Full Throttle Switch

27. Hall Sensor timing signal

28. Tan diagnostic connector, upper terminal BL/Y wire

29. RPM Sensor Shield and ground.

30. O2 sensor signal

31. Blue Diagnostic Connector, upper pin Y/BK wire

32. Brake Light Switch

33. Black Diagnostic Connector, upper pin +12V BLK wire

34. Coding connector

35. +12V Ignition supply from Terminal 15


MAC-14 ECU Photo

Here is what the inside of the MAC-14 ECU looks like.


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